Uncle Pu retraced another journey from his past, and took us to the ghost town of Sandon. From the highway the first signs of it we saw were an elaborate system of tall white buildings and passageways at the creek's edge, constructed I think in the mid-20th century but still operational. Klondike Silver Mining Co. or a similar name was written on the side. Densely embedded in the evergreen trees, with slender railway tracks teetering along the hillsides, as this area was, I was amazed yet again that anyone had been able to navigate from Vancouver to here in the 19th century, let alone set up little or big mining outfits, before the arrival of post-war highways.
— As it was, even in 2024 road maintenance crews were working between Slocan and Sandon in conditions that did not lack adventure. Workers in high-visibility vests were scaling steep banks beside the road, chainsaw held in one hand, to clear tree saplings, as cars like ours passed beside them. Other work crews had been renewing the asphalt. —
The visitors' part of Sandon, at any rate, is upslope of the Klondike Silver Mining Co. complex. Perched beside a creek on a declivity that had already put paid to a few chapters of the town's history by collapsing it in an avalanche, the creek itself also flooding the town in the 1950s, wooden frameworks were exposed where the riverbanks had eroded underneath the buildings. Whether these frames were mining apparatus, like supports for a flume, or slope stabilization attempts, I was too ignorant of engineering to know.
| Riverbank fortification beneath Sandon, B.C. September 14, 2024. All rights reserved. |
Sandon's visitor's site started with a modestly sized veranda'd house and then a string of Canada Rail train wagons behind a locomotive, which accompanied the road up to a parking lot. Behind the tourists' cars, which had US as well as Canadian license plates, there was a gift shop. It was in a building that looked very much like a drug store emporium or general store out of a Laura Ingalls Wilder book. Two stories high, impressively towering above the river like a lookout post, it had a certain flat rough-and-readiness to it that did suggest quick construction to accommodate a mining boom, as well as mysterious windows with uncomplicated plate glass panes that would give ghosts a fine view. My youngest brother popped into the gift shop and emerged with a black-and-white postcard, after chatting with the owner.
In the parking lot area, a collection of trolleybuses had been parked that traced the history of British Columbia's public transit during the mid-1900s: pastel beige shells, drivers' seats where one could imagine a uniformed conductor politely speaking in a British accent with his passengers, empty rows, an accordion door, displays on the fore of each vehicle revealing whether the bus had been in service in — for example — Stanley Park (Vancouver) or some other neighbourhood or town.
| Old mining(?) structures at Sandon, B.C. September 14, 2024. All rights reserved. |
Odds and ends of old, rust-tinged equipment were scattered around. Above the gift shop and the buses, one or two business buildings that predated the First World War had been lovingly rebuilt. Their façades, like the shop, hinted at the first decades of Sandon, when it had been thriving with hotels, sports venues, brothels, telephone office, post office, an Opera House, and men on the hunt for mineral ore. Specifically these men were extracting galena, which — so an online encyclopedia informs me — is an ore that yields lead but also silver. But Sandon was also an internment site of Japanese-Canadians during World War II.
| Information sign above river at Atherton Block, Sandon, B.C. September 14, 2024. All rights reserved. |
Further up, two or three historical houses that had belonged to engineers or other staff (and were inaccessible to prying eyes as they are still in use, if only for storage) sat below a very old hydropower house from the reign of Queen Victoria. Still operational over 125 years later, thunderously loud to the point that I could not hear the guide explaining the history of the site to my brothers from where I was standing, it still feeds electricity into the BC Hydro network. Below where I stepped out of the station again, frothing water went crashing out below the turbine's screw, to rejoin the river. Piles of dark grey rubble nearby looked like fertile terrain for archaeological foraging, but I realized soon enough that I didn't have the necessary knowledge of materials to 'read' the spoil heaps.
The guide told my brothers that old mine shafts and tunnels hidden in the hills around the ghost town are often searched out by prowling visitors. A few of these tunnels are accessible and safe enough; others are less accessible and hardly intact. Needless to say that my imagination could hardly have been fuelled more. I'd have happily poked around — if amongst other doubts I weren't afraid of creeping someone out by trespassing on their private property.
| View of Sandon, B.C. from the power house September 14, 2024. All rights reserved. |
I was in a stinker of a mood, however. (Which is also why I took only about 12 notes on the site and may have made a lot of mistakes in the past few paragraphs.) So it was a relief to drive back toward New Denver, by way of Kaslo. We passed many faintly haunted corners, like Zincton, a ghost town established in 1892 that was tenanted by miners of zinc ore, just like the name suggests. What we saw of it was a hushed, marshy green pond steeped in trees. We passed a sign warning of danger — explosives — avalanche control ... a wooden boat in antique shape ... a Mudslide Area ... and a cross-country skiing sign.
***
| Church in or near Kaslo, B.C. September 14, 2024. All rights reserved. |
STEAMSHIPS, like gold miners in 19th century garb standing ankle-deep in the pebbles of a British Columbia river or a Victorian housewife wearing a crinoline while boiling hard candies for a party over a coal stove — as well as largely unchallenged racism and colonialist brutality — seemed like a figment of Canadian history that I could read about but never see.
That said, Kaslo brought brighter facets of this lost world back to life. Tourist destination via steamship a hundred years ago, it is still a tourist destination via car now. Dominating its lakeside fringes is a well-kept paddlewheeler, a National Historical Site of Canada, with historical exhibits like vintage automobiles in and around it. We arrived on a thriving but not overly crowded day, where rainbow-coloured Pride flags were flying around the false fronts of the old buildings. I ate a few cherries left over from the Okanagan region orchards before we strolled toward the ship. A few of the siblings went down to explore, while I remained on the street above.
Uncle Pu ventured into an antiques shop and I came along. It offered an eclectic mixture of war medals, historical currencies of many different countries e.g. from the 1920s, tobacco pipes arranged on top of furniture, candlesticks, vintage clothing like furs, vinyl records, Dickens volumes and the Bobbsey Twins, 20th century toys for children, perfume diffusers, and even a painted red memento box for the coronation (if I recall correctly; it could even have been the coronation of George V, in this style) of George VI. Other people were browsing, too, like a U.S. couple from Idaho. If I'd had more luggage space and hadn't quit my job a year earlier and thus been on a budget, I would have been tempted to buy at least the royal memorabilia for a British friend. A kayak shop was nearby, although I've forgotten how the negotiations went there and just jotted down that it was too late in the day for rentals — and a realty office and a Drill Hall.
| The paddle steamer sternwheeler S.S. Moyie in Kaslo. It looks taller in person, when not looking from the far side of the street. September 14, 2024. All rights reserved. |
Then we ambled into a café that offered ice cream — tiger striped was my choice — and cookies as well as the coffee. I didn't take any notes on this, so just from recollection: There were two or three snug round tables that could barely fit us, and I felt mildly guilty as other customers came and left without finding a seat. Through the window we could easily see, without leaving our chairs, the comings and goings on the main street. Feeling well fed and relaxed after that — even I, despite my earlier grumpiness — we happily took our leave from Kaslo and returned to New Denver for the evening.