Saturday, March 14, 2026

Saturday Brunch and a Few Minutes with Antifa

This morning I met up with one of my aunts, who's visiting Berlin, in the northeast of the city. Going there on my bicycle, it wasn't exactly fun to ride streets seemingly designed for narrow 18th-century carriage traffic, with cobblestones and dangerous tram tracks, large delivery vans and car drivers with a need for speed, from a road safety perspective. But on the whole I enjoyed the journey, since I don't otherwise get out to that neighbourhood much anymore and of course I was looking forward to the meet-up.

The two of us had tea, quiche and cake together and talked. And then we strolled out for an ice cream. The streets were peaceful considering that the area is a hipster mecca; we did not have to wait in line with fifty (I exaggerate slightly) families for our gelato, which is often enough the case in Berlin. The cloudy weather likely explained it!

It is a relief that rain is forecast again, because the winter has not been as wet as it should have been. I use an app that tracks Berlin's city trees. Since it's geared up again at the beginning of March (when the trees awake from hibernation) it shows that the past month's rainfall has been ~15.5% of what it should be. That said, the street water pump in the neighbourhood was not yet spouting out any water when I checked it earlier this week, so I haven't been able to start supplying 'my' trees with groundwater again. I could use water left over from rinsing vegetables at home, but since tree roots apparently grow deeper and better if given at least 40 litres at once, I think it would take a week (and a lot of forbearance on my mother's side) to gather the right amount.

I was caught up in an anti-fascist protest on my way home. A huge contingent of police vans had been dispersed in flotillas around the general area. Riot police officers had even been shipped in from Bavaria (their black uniforms had the telltale abbreviation "BY" on the backs) to help the Berlin authorities deal with a plethora of demonstrations. The counter-protest I was caught up in was inspired by a march of a neo-Nazi party. Judging by the speaker whose message was being amplified from a vehicle at the rear of the neo-Nazis, the marchers felt that their freedom of speech was being infringed upon and that the mainstream political parties were no good. I wasn't sure if this allegation of censorship was a reference to the government recently shutting down a publishing house that reprinted the 'greatest hits' of the Nazi era without context or comment.

Riot police on foot and the police vans didn't just surround the march. Eventually one group of officers put on their helmets (generally an indication that things are getting heated) while others performed an uncomfortable trot to keep up with the moving crowd of counter-protestors.

These counter-protestors were mostly, I judged, at least a decade younger than me, so not unlike my classmates at university. One held out a black Antifa flag with logo where the neo-Nazis would see it at the front of the crowd, but most carried neither signs nor flags. Many others clapped their hands, raised their arms, and chanted 'Siamo tutti antifascisti!' To vary the programme, they sometimes chanted "Nazis raus!", and two or three at the front of the crowd silently held up both middle fingers, while another tooted a horn to try to drown out the rightwing protest's messages. A few had muffled their mouths with scarves, a few wore black FFP2 face masks, and one young person wore a keffiyeh around their neck. As a protestor came to stand on the bollard right beside me, I presumed that nobody minded my incongruous presence in a business-casual wool skirt, tights, baby-blue knit sweater, and flowered pink silk scarf.

Eventually the police blocked the counter-protest's progress entirely, perhaps because the street narrowed past this point? The fun was essentially over. I went up to the front of the crowd, explained that I lived in street X, and asked if there'd be any way of getting through within the next 10 minutes. An officer answered, through her face shield, 'Vorerst geht nichts mehr.'

So I took a detour home, feeling a little guilty that I'd enjoyed myself so much when the subject matter of the protests had been serious.

Fortunately the rest of the journey was uneventful. The evening news mentioned that, like other protests in Berlin today, these protests' turnout had been lower than projected. There were no gruesome tales to be told.

No comments: